Shillong Tourism

The Scotland of The East

The romantic city of Shillong has been one of the important tourist destinations in the northeast. It is often referred to as the “Scotland of the East” due to its striking similarity with the Scottish highlands. The city derives its name from “Leishyllong”-the Superpower or God who is believed to reside on the Shillong peak, overlooking the city. Lying in the cradle of the tall pine conifers and pineapple shrubs, Shillong’s undulating terrain is a constant source of attraction for tourists from both home and abroad. The Khasi, Jaintia and Garo tribes add color to this hilly city.

Location of Shillong

The capital of Meghalaya, Shillong lies on the eastern part of the state. Perched at an altitude of 1,520 meters (4,990 feet) above sea level, the city stretches for about 6 km on an elevated tract. It is situated on a plateau bound on the north by the Umiam gorge, on the northwest by the great mass of the Diengiei Hills that rise up to a height of 1,823 meters (6077 ft.) above sea level, and on the northeast by the hills of the Asom valley. The Umshyrpi and the Umkhra rivers, which finally merge and form the Umiam River, water it. Shillong is at distance of 104 km from Guwahati, 295 km from Kaziranga, 578 km from Siliguri and 658 km from Darjeeling. The climate is hot and humid during summers. The monsoons arrive in June and it rains almost until the end of August. It is quite cold during winters.

The Past

Shillong was a small village until 1864, when it became the new civil station of the Khasi and Jaintia hills. It remained the summer capital of Eastern Bengal and Asom for many years. In 1874, on the formation of Asom as a Chief Commissioner’s Province, it was chosen as the capital of the new administration. An earthquake destroyed the city in 1897, necessitating its complete rebuilding. In January 1972, Shillong became the capital of the newly formed state of Meghalaya.

Sites to Visit

The Waterfalls:

The Crinoline Falls is about 12-13 m in height and lies to the west of the Survey of India Office. There is a swimming pool at the base of the falls.

The Gunner’s Falls 1 is about 24-26 m in height and is near the military establishment on the Upper Shillong road. It is about 1.6 km from the GPO.

The Gunner’s Falls 2 lies a km away from the Happy Valley amidst picturesque locales.

The Spread Eagle Falls or Sati Falls is located about a mile away from the Polo Ground. It is a famous picnic spot.

The Sweet Falls (also called “Weitden,” in the native dialect) is the most beautiful of all the waterfalls in Shillong. It lies about 5 km from the Happy Valley and is about 96 m in height.

The Elephant Gait and the Elephant Falls are located near Upper Shillong. These are beautiful sights especially in the rainy season and are favorite picnic spots among the locals. Beyond the Elephant Falls, one can also view the Upper and Lower Elysium Falls.

The Beadon Falls lie about 2 km from Bara Bazaar. There is a hydroelectric powerhouse at the base of the falls. The Bishop Falls is also nearby and together they mingle and flow into the Umiam River.

Shillong Peaks

Shillong Peak, the highest point of Shillong, is located 5 km to the south of the city and is 1961 meters (6,433 feet) in altitude. Being the highest peak in the district, it is often surrounded with fog. The peak itself is not steep, but rather semi-circular like that of a crown placed on the flat and extensive top of the Shillong Hill. The peak is accessible via the Upper Shillong or Jowai Road.

The Sohpetbneng Peak is 1343 m in altitude and is regarded as sacred by the Hynfiiewtrep tribe. It is a picturesque location.

The Dingei Hill is situated near the Umiam stream. Two paths lead to this hill from Shillong. One is the narrow tract that leads straight to the gorge through Umiyangka village. For a height of 1,000 ft on either side of the stream, the gradient is very steep and precipitous thus making it excellent for mountain climbing. The second route begins at Barapani on the GS Road, about 16 km from Shillong. During the upward journey, one is provided a captivating view of the Bhoi district, which lies 300 ft below the summit of the Dingei Hill.

The Dumpeep Peak is the highest in Swer and is 5100 feet above sea level. The Kyllang rock lies 78 km from Shillong. The rock is a steep bare cliff of granite, 200 m in height and rises abruptly from plain grassy downs.

Lakes  in Shillong

The Ward Lake is an important tourist site of Shillong. It is a horseshoe-shaped artificial lake lying beneath the Raj Bhavan (Governor's Residence) and the Accountant General's (AG) Office, with little isles and a bridge over it. The lake abounds in fish (grass carps) and feeding the fish from the bridge is a favorite pastime of the tourists. It is said that a Khasi prisoner, who requested for any kind of work to get him out of his cell, initiated its construction. The lake has a charming winding walk-a-way in the midst of rolling flowerbeds and fairyland lighting with gradually undulating grounds, hemmed in by lush greens. Boats are also available, while the cafeteria provides refreshments.

Seventeen kilometers before Shillong is situated Umiam or Barapani, a large lake formed after a hydroelectric dam was built across a stream. In recent years, this has become an increasingly popular place for outings and weekend visits. The Orchid Lake Resort, designed by the famous architect Charles Correa, and constructed amongst pinewood, overlooks the lake. There are facilities for water sports here: from kayaking and water skiing for the adventurous to water cycling and simple boating for the less brave. The Orchid Lake Resort, run by the Meghalaya Tourism Department, has pleasantly appointed rooms with balconies, a restaurant and bar.

Other Attractions:

The State Museum is located at the State Central Library complex in Laichumiere and visitors can catch a glimpse of the heritage and lifestyle of the Khasi tribe here. The Butterfly Museum at Riatsamthiah holds a rare collection of butterflies and moths.

The Botanical Garden near Ward Lake has some species of flora of the region. A better place is the Orchidarium of the Botanical Survey of India. It has a rare collection of orchids and is a treat for the nature lover.

Near the Botanical Garden, one can find the celebrated Golf Course, called the Gleneagles of the East. The Golf club retains the colonial touch and is the first 18-hole golf course in Asia.

Behind the Shillong Civil Hospital, near the Pine Mount School, is the Lady Hydari Park. The park nestles a small zoo, a small museum, an aviary, and a deer park among tall cedars and pines.

In front of St. Edmund’s College, one can visit the fruit garden, maintained by the Department of Agriculture. During spring, one can see the trees in full bloom. There are many reservoirs filled with natural spring water that have the dual purpose of watering the gardens and functioning as a nursery-known as "Fishdale" for the raising and breeding of fish, notably hill-trout and carps.

Shillong is also famous for its churches. The most beautiful church is that of the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians. Directly below the hill is the Grotto Church. The All Saints Church opposite the State Central Library is an attractive structure made out of wood.

Sites Nearby

About 56 km from Shillong is Cherrapunji village (East Khasi Hills district), now called Sohra. Located on the Shillong plateau about 55 km southwest of Shillong, Cherrapunji and Mausynram (another village nearby) are reputed to be the wettest places in the world. The heavy rains here often swell the waters of the Nohsngithiang waterfall. The town is famous for its limestone caves and orange honey. It has the oldest Presbyterian Church. Krem Mawmluh is a 4.5-km-long cave near Cherrapunji.

A little further down the road to limestone caves, there is a graveyard where British missionaries and their close relatives lie buried. The visitors are awed by a series of giant pillars or megaliths that have been erected near a stream. Such megaliths are to be seen in different parts of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills and are usually erected to commemorate great deeds or to honor dead chieftains. Accommodation is available at the Circuit House.

The summer capital of the Jaintia kings, Nartiang, is about 65 km east of Shillong. There is a park of megaliths, some of which are as high as 8. A 500-year-old temple of Durga is another attraction at Nartiang.

En route Nartiang, 64 km from Shillong, is the small lake of Thadlaskein. It is a beautiful picnic spot.

About 13 km from Shillong is the village of Nongkrem. It is the seat of the Syiem of Nongkrem, whose estate extends up to Shillong. The traditional Nongkrem Dance festival is held here around autumn and draws large crowds of visitors.

Sixty-four kilometers from Shillong is Jakrem, a popular health resort having hot springs of sulfur water, believed to have curative medicinal properties. Dawki, a border town, 96 km from Shillong, provides a glimpse of Bangladesh. The colorful annual boat race during spring at the Umgot River is an added attraction. At a distance of 140 km from Shillong is Ranikor, an angler's paradise containing a huge population of carp and mahseers.

Jowai is a popular and prosperous town situated on a beautiful plateau 1,500 m above sea level. Three sides of this plateau slope sharply down to the Hai River and contiguous areas are rich in coal deposits. It is also an important station on the route to Silchar and Agartala.

Festivals

The festivals vary according to the tribes. Christmas, Easter, Good Friday and the New Year Day celebrations are the most important. Ka Pomblang Nongkrem, or the Nongkrem dance, is one of the most important Khasi festivals. Shad Sukmynsiem is another important festival of the Khasis. Behdiengkhlam, the festival of the Jaintias, is celebrated in July. Wangala is the festival of the Garos and is dedicated to the Sun God.

Where To Shop

The main shopping areas are Police Bazaar, Bara Bazaar and Laitumukhrah. On Iewduh, the first day of the eight-day long Khasi week, people from all over eastern Meghalaya come to sell their products here. In the center of Police Bazar, on the corner of Kacheri road, there are shops selling finely woven baskets of all sizes. For hand-woven shawls, handicrafts, orange flower honey and cane work, one can visit the various emporia like Meghalaya Handicrafts, Khadi Gramodyog and Purbashree.

How to Reach Shillong

The nearest airport and railhead is Guwahati in Asom. The Guwahati-Shillong Road connects the two cities. Pineapple plantations and pine trees on both sides line the road. There are buses every half an hour to Guwahati. Taxi services (Ph. 223895) are also available at cheap rates.

Food and Accommodation

There are numerous cheap hotels in the Police Bazaar area and on GS Road. Hotel Pinewood (Ph. 223116), built in the early 1900s, is a good place to stay. The traditional Khasi delicacies include pig’s brains with ginger and fried rice flavored with pig’s blood.

Information

The Meghalaya Tourism Office (Ph. 226220) on Jail Road in Police Bazaar conducts trips to Cherrapunji. The Government of India Tourist Office (Ph. 225632) at GS Road may also be contacted for help. Travelers’ cheques can be exchanged easily in Shillong.

PEMAYANGTSE

THE TOWN

The small town of Pemayangtse is an important Buddhist religious center in the state of Sikkim. Pemayangtse is not only a religious center, but it offers a panoramic view of the eastern Himalayas to the traveler including the mighty Kanchenjunga peak that overlooks the town. The area around Pemayangtse offers to the adventure seeker a number of trekking and hiking trails.

LOCATION

Pemayangtse is located in the southwestern part of the state of Sikkim, in the northeastern region of India. It is set amongst the Sikkim Himalayas at a height of 6,000 feet above sea level and is near Great Rangit River. The weather in Pemayangtse is alpine. Summers (April-June) are short and mild, while winters are cold (November-February). It experiences monsoon rains between July and September.


VISITING TIME

The best time to visit Pemayangtse is between the months of March and May

HISTORY
The state of Sikkim was originally the home of the Lepcha tribesmen. In the 15th century AD, this region saw the migration of Tibetan Buddhist sects. The Nyingamapa sect/order established its base in Sikkim and their religious teachers or Lamas helped establish the Kingdom of Sikkim. The ruler of this kingdom was called the Chogyal. The capital of this kingdom was at Yuksom and later shifted to Rabdentse, both of which are near Pemayangtse.

The kingdom of Sikkim included parts of eastern Nepal, the Chumbi valley (Tibet), Ha valley of Bhutan and foothills of India up to Darjeeling. The kingdom of Sikkim tried to resist the advancing British rule in the 19th century, but the British annexed it in 1849. The power of the Chogyal was thus reduced and Sikkim was made a British protectorate. This action of the British infuriated the Tibetans, who had an unsuccessful armed clash with the British. This area became a part of India when India annexed Sikkim in 1975.

PACHMARHI

Wanting to get away from it all is common enough but more often than not ‘it all’ follows one to the very place one seeks refuge in. This is particularly true of hill stations where the attraction lies to a large extent in the beautiful natural surroundings. But more significantly it is for the silence, serenity and solitude that hill stations offer that they are places of retreat and get away from the crowds and confusion of a city. Today, few such remain. Commercialism and hard sell having eroded all but the natural beauty, at times sparing not even that.

A HILL RESORT WITH SOME DIFFERENCE

Among the few exceptional hill resorts in India is Pachmarhi in Madhya Pradesh. It is not on the usual beat of hill station buffs and therefore, not over-developed. Though considered a hill station, it does not offer the predictable mountain fare of awesome heights and spectacular scenery, for the Satpuras are low-lying weathered hills. Pachmarhi’s appeal is low-key. Peace, seclusion and a quiet unobtrusive beauty are its prime attractions.

THE PAST

A derelict church and houses with a perceptible colonial ambience are vestiges of the British Raj. It was in fact Colonel Forsyth, a Bengal Lancer, who discovered Pachmarhi in 1857, and the point where he first sighted and fell in love with the area was named after him and earlier called Forsyth Point. Today this has been renamed Priyadarshini Point. This enthralling feeling of Forsyth was echoed by other Englishmen who, finding the town pleasant throughout the year, settled here and developed Pachmarhi into a cantonment, which it still is today. Development has come by way of government-aided projects that are geared more towards cottage industries.







TRIBAL LIFE

One can easily encounter the tribals, the Gonds and the Korkus, busy gathering firewood. These are the native in-habitants of the area who live in small huts or in almost primeval rock shelters. They are a happy people content with a simple lifestyle, fond of song, dance and the local brew mahua. Their distinct lifestyle manifests itself in a number of quaint customs like the memorial blocks they carve for their dead which are rather like wooden slates, each with a figure carved in relief representing the dead person riding a horse. This is surprising because horses are hardly visible in the area. Perhaps the horses signify a journey to the other world.

WHAT TO DO

There’s something for everyone in Pachmarhi. The rocks which have eroded into fascinating shapes and sizes attract rock climbers, while a wildlife enthusiast may even spot a variety of deer and birds in the dense deep forests of sal, mahua, jamun and bamboo.

RECREATION

Pachmarhi is a place for walks, along the short or long chakkars, along the predictable way or along lesser known routes where one can come across rock shelters such as those in the Maradeo hill covered with paintings depicting warfare, food gathering and hunting, some dating as far back as 1000 BC. Walks take one through forests and meadows, to hill tops such as Dhoopgarh, the highest point in the Satpuras where the sunsets are quite spectacular, or down gorges and valleys where water and shade have led to a luxuriant growth of vegetation in every conceivable shade of green. Few sounds are heard other than the chirping of birds or that of water trickling, flowing or thunderously cascading into falls that end in large azure pools.

SITES TO VISIT

The Apsara Vihar or Fairy Pool is perhaps the most beautiful of pools in Pachmarhi. The descent is easy, the location ideal for a picnic and the pool shallow enough for a paddle. Some distance away the Rajat Parbat or the Big Falls, true to their name gush down from a height of over three hundred feet. Close to the Ramaya Kund, or Irene Pool, are the Duchess Falls, ideal for swimming. These are not quite so spectacular but the setting makes them one of Pachmarhi’s most beautiful and picturesque waterfalls.

Perhaps the beauty and seclusion led people to believe that Pachmarhi was a preferred place of the gods, for the area around abounds in pilgrim spots. The Chota Mahadev, a narrow point in the hills; Maradeo, the second highest point in the Satpuras, which comes alive during the annual Shivratri celebrations; Chauragarh, where a pilgrim path leads to a sacred summit with several images of Shiva, and the Jata Shankar cave where Shiva is believed to have hidden himself from the demon king Bhasmasur. This is a sacred cave under a mass of loose boulders that resemble the matted locks of Lord Shiva, hence the name. Handi Khoh, today a deep ravine, was believed to be a huge lake that was guarded by a snake that terrorized all who came to visit the sacred spots in the vicinity. Shiva came to the rescue and succeeded in imprisoning him in solid rock. The flames of wrath ensuing from this divine battle dried up the waters of the lake and the empty space assumed the saucer-like shape of a handi or pot.

Priyadarshini Point, the point from where Captain Forsyth, first caught a glimpse of Pachmarhi, is an oft visited spot. Lanjee Giri is of interest to rock-climbers as it offers some easy scaling near the summit. Jalwataran or Duchess Falls is another important site and one can trek to this picturesque waterfall that falls in three distinct cascades. The tourists frequent Pandav Caves. The Pandav brothers are believed to the spent a part of their exile in these famous caves from which Pachmarhi takes its name.

GETTING THERE

The nearest airport is Bhojpal (120 kilometers) connected by regular flights with Delhi, Gwalior, Indur, Mumbai, Raipur and Jablipuram. Pipariya (47 kilometers), on the Mumbai-Howrah mainline via Allahabad is the most convenient railhead. Pachmarhi is connected by regular bus services with Bhojpal, Hashangabad, Nagpur, Pipariya and Chhindwara. Taxis are available at Pipariya.

OOTY

There is something special about Ooty. The lush vegetation and the lavender-blue sheen of the mountains offer a promise of a summer of peace

LOCATION

Couched amidst those gorgeous blue mountains of southern India, there is something special about the erstwhile British township of Ooty. Year after year, it draws tourists, adventure enthusiasts, honeymooners and the film industry like bees to nectar. Sure, many wise travelers believe that Ooty is a dumpyard, a degraded, over-rated hill station, and so on. Nevertheless, the wiser one will see how Ooty can soothe strung-up nerves and become the backdrop for a wondrous holiday.

Ooty nestles in an amphitheatre created by four majestic hills --- Doddabetta, Snowdon, Elk Hill and Club Hill. These hills are part of the Nilgiri ranges that are really the meeting point for the Western and the Eastern Ghats. But why the ‘blue’ mountains, one would naturally wonder at the name. Do rest assured, when the lavender-blue flowers of the famous Strobilanthes cover the hills in floral profusion, it would be time to stop wondering, for it is these funnel-shaped blossoms that are the reason for the name.

Although signboards all around scream and beg to make people call this 36-sq-km hill resort Udhagamandalam, their pleas obviously fell on deaf ears. Ooty will always be Ooty to everyone. As the blaze of the afternoon sun gives way to a nippy evening, one can make his way towards the nearby lake. This part of Ooty was once a huge bog with a west-flowing stream. In 1824, the lower part of the stream was converted into a lake. Though the lake seems ordinary enough, what really gets the tourists all excited is the warmth and buzz of activity in the vicinity. There is a boathouse where rowboats and motorboats can be had on hire. A Tamilnadu Tourism Development Corporation venture, it remains open from 8 am to 6 pm. Sitting at the edge of the lake and watching the sun dipping down to herald darkness, is a soothing experience, to put it lightly.

The beautiful Botanical Gardens are, in a word, Ooty’s milestone. Reaching the sprawling maze of greens and blooms, up northeast of the township, one’s first thought is of the incredible influence of British rule in India. And these images, reminiscent of the Raj, were all over Ooty. Not surprising, considering that the hill resort as we know it now was founded by the British, in the early 1800s, to serve as the Madras Government’s summer headquarters. The Botanical Gardens of Ooty, established in 1847, are much like the typical, manicured and planned gardens one sees so often. But the real beauty of the place is its plants, an amazingly diverse array with trees, shrubs and herbs of a mind-boggling number of species. And the flowers were really something to write home about. Is it the altitude (Ooty nestles at 2240 m above sea level) and the rarefied air, or the lack of polluted air that gives these flowers an added shine and gloss? They smile from everywhere as one ambles about the lovely, spread-out profusion. The fossil tree trunk that one sees here is believed to be 20 million years old!

The great charm of Ooty is not so much the specific tourist destination; it is, in fact, the long lovely walks that it offers. Anywhere you go the serenity of the Nilgiris will be all around you. Specially the strategic points from where one could either see Ooty or the view all around, like Snowdon, Ketty Valley, the Wenlock Downs and, of course, Doddabetta. Further, one could hire a horse either near the boathouse or at the Savoy-for a slightly more exhilarating excursion in and around town.

Ooty is a haven for the seeker of sports, adventure or otherwise; from hiking and riding to fishing for trout and playing tennis and snooker. Then, of course, there is the gorgeously scenic golf course tucked away in the northwest almost straight across town from the Gardens. Many avid golfers believe that the links of the Ooty Gymkhana Club are among the best in the world. Then there is the Race Course, in the heart of town. Today, Ooty has shot up on the demand charts of the Mumbai (Bombay) film industry, and with the southern filmmakers already there, the resort faces quite a glut of starry stuff. With a large number of popular hill stations of the Himalayas snuffed out or made inaccessible by violence and political upheaval, Ooty is now a hot spot for the filmwallah. So you mustn’t be rattled to find your peaceful walks punctuated by sudden crowds and an outlandishly attired couple running around a grove of eucalyptus tree.

The eucalyptuses are quite a part of the Ooty landscape. They even fuel a small oil industry, so it is common to find eucalyptus oil in the shops at Ooty. These tall, lanky trees seemed much at home on the slopes around. Many a traveler may feel that Ooty and the Nilgiris lack the awe, mystique and drama of the Himalayas. One can only feel sorry for the cynical traveler who failed to catch the pulse of Ooty’s charm and more so the Nilgiris. For the lush green serenity of these southern hills of India would be difficult to find anywhere else. A summer of peace and uncluttered, cool days is what the Nilgiris offer, with their resonant echoes of a rich and tangible Dravidian culture.

A CUP OF CAMELLIA

All along the hill slopes in the Nilgiri Mountains, you will find that omnipresent, glossy, stout bush with fragrant white or pink flowers and a melodious name camellia (Camellia thea). Tea, brought to the Nilgiris in the 1860s, is amongst India’s most prominent plantation crops, what with the country being the world’s largest producer, consumer and exporter of black tea. This is perhaps why the slopes of the Nilgiris, all round Ooty, Coonoor and the like, seem to have tea bushes almost like a second skin.

Processed tender leaves and leaf buds compose the tea of commerce. This agro-industry flourishes on the hillsides of the Nilgiris and experts say that tea growing at a higher elevation would have a flavor superior to that growing at lower heights. This flavor and distinctive character of the popular beverage is from essential oils and alkaloids present in the plant. But then, all this is after a long manufacturing process that is carried out in industrial units on the plantation itself or nearby. From harvesting to curing, rolling and fermentation, to drying and grading, the process is delicate and tedious. There are minor variations depending on the kind of tea being produced. The delicacy of the job of picking ‘two leaves and a bud’ is perhaps testified by the fact that pickers are always women or children.

And so, it is the camellia bushes, with their sheen and gloss that green the Blue Mountains, providing raw material for a huge industry and employment for many in the land of the Strobilanthes.

AROUND OOTY

Ooty has the singular distinction of having many places around that are worthy of a visit, or sometimes even a halt. Heading east from the southeast of Ooty will take one to Coonoor and Wellington, two very beautiful townships. Coonoor, though small, had much to boast of Sim’s Park, Lamb’s Rock, Dolphin’s Nose and generally pretty landscape. Wellington, of course, is a typical army township, clean and smart. Coonoor may easily charm one enough to stay longer, with its lush, tea bush slopes and attractive British houses.

About 28 km from Ooty, towards the east, is the 26-sq-km Kotagiri, incredibly picturesque, amongst the first townships of the British and a great place to visit. From Kotagiri one can even proceed to the Kodanad View, Catherine Falls or Rangaswamy Peak, all famous for their natural beauty.

The famous Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, 67 km from Ooty, stretches over 321 sq km. Traveling to Ooty from Mysooru and Bengaluru, one passes the sanctuary with its dense vegetation crowding the banks of the lovely Mayar River. Herds of wild elephants, or lone tuskers, a great variety of birds, cats, snakes, and deer are known to live in these cool, dark jungles of the Nilgiris.

10 kilometers out of Ooty is the great Doddabetta Peak, the highest in the Nilgiri chain of mountains. Doddabetta stands at 2623 m and if your trip is made on a clear day visible all around you will be Coonoor, Wellington, Mettupalayam, and Coimbatore. If it’s an exceptionally crisp day, you might even see Mysooru.

Avalanche, Upper Bhavani, Mukurti and Pykara are all places that are near Ooty and must be seen for their scenery. The reservoirs at Avalanche and Upper Bhavani are excellent waters for angling with the rainbow trout in particular abundance. All these places have an attractive mixed landscape of forests, shola-grasslands and tea-filled slopes.

Finally, for the scientifically curious, en route to Avalanche from Ooty is India’s largest radio telescope. So also the Hindustan Photo Films in the Wenlock Downs, the only factory of its kind in India, manufacturing sensitized photographic materials.

THE NARROW TRAIL


This is a journey nobody should miss. A journey where you jostle with unimaginable crowds and squeeze into tiny coaches, a journey where you feel you can actually reach out and touch the elusive Nilgiris. It starts at Mettupalayam, 46 km southeast of Ooty, where you board the Blue Mountain Express that gets pushed by an engine instead of being pulled!

When you hear frequent references to the Ooty mountain train, you would somehow conjure up Lilliputian images of people sitting in orderly, storybook fashion. That’s sure mistake, for this small train of the Nilgiris couldn’t be more full, with human forms oozing from every pore! And if you still harbor rosy images, try clambering on from Coonoor where it stops en route to Mettupalayam. This is a precious travel tip, mind you.

But once you’re on, it’s heaven. The overpowering Nilgiri landscape has the ability to make you oblivious of the human ocean around you and the greenery is bliss. It’s a memorable 4-5-hour journey; so don’t miss it for anything.

IN THE WILD
The region is a treasure of wildlife, with some animals even native to these southern mountain ranges. There is that deep-voiced Nilgiri langur (Presbytis johnii) with its shiny black body and yellow-brown crown. The Nilgiri langur happens to be one of the 5-langur species found in India and Sri Lanka. These langurs of the Nilgiris are often found in the sholas, which are amongst their favorite haunts. It’s in the sholas that you can also see the lion-tailed macaque.

The shy, timid and hard-to-spot Nilgiri tahr (Hemitragus hylocrius) also has its home in these Blue Mountains. This animal has pride of place in being the only wild goat to inhabit any region south of the Himalayas. It has a short coat, dark yellow brown in color, and prefers to inhabit craggy regions above forest level. The Nilgiris are home to a great variety of carnivorous animals like tigers, panthers, jackals and hyenas. Elephants, wildcats, civet cats, giant squirrels and mongoose are also part of Nilgiri fauna. The Nilgiri marten, nightjar, hill mynah, and golden oriole are some of the region’s avifauna. In essence, this range of mountains harbors a massive diversity of animal life.

GETTING THERE

Coimbatore, 105 km from Ooty, is the nearest airport. Indian Airlines has flight to Coimbatore from Bengaluru, Kochi and Chennai.

The Blue Mountain Express to Ooty is from Mettupalayam (47 km). Mettupalayam can be reached from Coimbatore by the Tea Garden Express.

All the important towns of Tamilnadu, Kerala and Karnataka are connected to Ooty.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

For further information, tourists may contact: Tourist Office, Government of Tamilnadu, Supermarket Building, Charring Cross, Ooty.

MUNNAR

A HILL STATION CALLED MUNNAR

Munnar is a small hill station set amongst the Kannan Devan hills. It is famous for its lush green surroundings, lakes, reservoirs, forests, and tea estates. The quiet environs of Munnar attract the traveler to relax in the lap of Mother Nature. Munnar also beacons the adventure-seeking traveler, who is interested in paragliding. It has some of the highest tea estates in the world.

LOCATION

Munnar is located in the eastern part of the state of Kerala, in the southern region of India, amongst the craggy hills of the Western Ghats at an altitude of 1524 m above sea level. It is 130 km east of Kochi and borders the state of Tamil Nadu. The weather in Munnar is pleasant. Summers (April-June) are mild, while winters (November-February) are cool. It experiences heavy southwestern monsoon rains in June-August.

VISITING TIME
The best time to visit Munnar is between the months of October to March. Travelers must avoid the monsoon season while visiting Munnar.

TOURIST SPOTS

Travelers can have panoramic view of the verdant surroundings and forested hills from Munnar. Walks and hiking around this small town offer an exhilarating experience. Travelers can also enjoy walking amongst the numerous tea estates of Munnar and view the entire process of making tea, right from plucking of tealeaves to their processing at the Kundale tea plantation.

Anaimudi (2,695 m), the highest peak in southern India, can be viewed from Munnar.

The Christ Church is an important place to visit in Munnar. Built of stone, it was constructed by the British in 1910. This church is known for its stain glass windows. It has a number of brass plaques in memory of the tea planters.

The National Adventure Foundation conducts a course on paragliding in Munnar. Travelers can also enjoy boating in the lakes in Munnar.

SITES NEARBY

The Evarikulam National Park is 16 km from Munnar. This national park is the home of elephants, lion-tailed macaque, and the Nilgiri tahr (a rare mountain goat). Travelers can also explore the Rajamala Hills adjoining the national park.

Marayoor is 42 km from Munnar to east of the Evarikulam National Park. Here one can experience the peaceful ambience and beauty of a sandalwood forest.

The Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary is 10 km from Marayoor and 52 km from Munnar. This sanctuary is the home of elephants, leopards, and bear. Top Station, bordering the state of Kerala, offers spectacular views of the Western Ghats.

10 kilometers from Munnar, en route to Top Station, one can visit the Mudapetty Dam. This is a popular picnic spot and travelers can indulge in activities like boating and horse riding here.

SHOPPING

Munnar is famous for tea. Tourists may buy it straight from the numerous tea estates or from the various shops in Munnar.

HOW TO REACH

Munnar does not have an airport or railway station. The nearest airport and railway station is at Kochi, which is 130 km west of Munnar. Munnar is accessible by road from most of the towns in Kerala. It can also be reached from Madurai (6 hours) and Coimbatore (6 hours), which are located in the state of Tamil Nadu. Auto-rickshaws and bicycles can be hired for exploring the town.

INFORMATION

Tourists can obtain necessary information from the tourist office and the Wildlife Warden’s Office situated near the PWD guesthouse.

MAHABLESHWAR AND PANCHAGANI

LOCATION

Nestling in the curvaceous mountain ranges of the western ghats of Maharashtra are the cool misty resorts of Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani. Away from the crowds and noise of the city, these twin resorts are an ideal holiday destination.

Several little known but charming hill resorts nestle shyly in these mountains. They seem to belong to the colonial era when people traveled up to these resorts to escape the heat of the plains. Many of them still retain some of the old world charm and make an ideal holiday destination.

Among the hill resorts of the state, Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani are very popular. Tucked away in the Satara district, they are best approached from Pune. Spared the commercialization that has affected the hill resorts of north and south India, the two resorts offer a clean, calm and thoroughly refreshing alternative. And, perhaps the only place in the country which offers a myriad activities-boating, fishing, horse riding, trekking and playing golf on the gorgeous nine-hole golf course built on the edge of a cliff!

Overlooking the Krishna and Koyna valleys, Mahabaleshwar, at an altitude of 1372 meters opens up a whole world of picturesque delight. With an air of unspoilt beauty, it is a paradise for nature explorers and peace lovers, as also for filmmakers and producers. The summer capital of the erstwhile Bombay Presidency, Mahabaleshwar retains its quintessential charm, despite the increasing crowds that visit the town. Numerous majestic mansions built during the days of the British, still stand as monuments of the Raj.


MAHABALESHWAR

Mahabaleshwar derives its name from the presiding deity “Mahabali” whose shrine at the old Mahabaleshwar Temple is a major attraction for worshippers and tourists.

Lingmala waterfalls present an enthralling sight of cascading water as it scatters from atop a steep cliff into thin silver streaks, often encircled by rainbow colors. The other waterfalls --- chairman and Dhobi, are popular with picnickers. The former can be reached via the Carviali Road. Dhobi waterfall is on a bridle path connecting Petit Road with Old Mahabaleshwar Road. A boat ride on the tranquil, crystal-clear waters of Lake Vena entices one beyond appreciation. The cool whispers of the surroundings add to the serenity of the landscape.

Mahabaleshwar’s 30 exotic viewpoints provide one with a spectacular access to the ultimate in fascinating landscapes. Most of the points derive their names from some former British dignitary and are situated in the 10-kilometer radius of the bazaar in Mahabaleshwar. Some points can be reached by motorable roads, whereas other can be reached on foot

Wilson Point is the nearest and the highest point in Mahabaleshwar. It is a vast bare rock with three observation towers erected at different spots. It is a major attraction for tourists as it offers a beautiful view of the sunrise.

Babington point, 2 kilometers from the bazaar offers a beautiful view of the Koyna valley and Chinaman’s waterfall. Helen’s point is about a kilometer’s ride from here by the Blue Valley Road. It takes one into the midst of the valley and gives an enchanting view of tiny fields and neat little huts.

Bombay point is one of the earliest known points in Mahabaleshwar. Every evening visitors rush to the peak to get a spectacular view of the sunset. From the peak, one can also see Pratapgarh and Makrandgarh at their best.

Connaught peak and Hunter Point are situated off the Old Mahabaleshwar Road. Connaught Peak is the second highest peak of these hills. It offers a panoramic view of the Vena Lake and Krishna Valley. It was first known as Mount Olympia, and was a favorite spot for riders. The Duke of Connaught was so enchanted by its majestic view that he could not resist the temptation of associating his name with the spot. Hence in 1880, Mount Olympia became Connaught Peak.

From here one can see Old Mahabaleshwar and Elphinston Point to the north; Pandavgad and Krishna Valley to the east. Hunter’s point approached from Old Mahabaleshwar Road, gives a picturesque view of the Koyna Valley.

On the way to Arthur’s Seat one comes across Elphinston, Marjorie and Savitri Points and also Castle Rock. The cliffs at these points rise from the Konkan Valley, which are some 500 meters below the level of the Koyna Valley. The ravine between these points is the rise of Savitri River, which rushes down 700 meters straight from here.

Dr.Murray discovered the favorite picnic spot, Elphinston Point, named after the Governor of Bombay, Sir Elphinston, in 1830. Arthur’s Point, named after Arthur Malet, is Mahabaleshwar’s most famous point overlooking the densely forested valley. It is interesting from this point, to watch a straw hat or a handkerchief, tossed down, sailing attractively in the air like a spread-out parachute!

While going to Arthur’s Seat, one comes across a small stream called the Tiger Spring. Till this day people believe that tigers and panthers frequent this place to quench their thirst.

Lodwick Point is named after a General who reached this point in 1824. He was the first European to set foot on the Mahabaleshwar hills. A monument at the top of the promontory has been erected in his memory. Beyond Lodwick Point is the extreme end of the mountain range known as Elephant’s Head. It is only 12 feet to the Koyna Valley below. From Lodwick’s point, the overhanging cliff looks like an elephant’s head and trunk, and hence the name.

Kate’s point on the Mahabaleshwar-Pune road, gives a commanding view of the Krishna Valley. Near Kate’s point is the Echo Point, which, true to its name, echoes the words of the speaker.

PANCHGANI

On the way to Mahabaleshwar from Pune, Panchgani is a picturesque little town in the shade of groves of casuarinas and silver oak. Protected from harsh winds by a tableland on one side and high cliffs descending into a valley on the other, Panchgani has a pleasant, bracing climate throughout the year. Panchgani is also an ideal base for some good trekking from where one can explore several mule tracks that lead through the now thinning forests.

The hill resort derives its name from the five hills that surround it. At an altitude of 1334 meters it is just 38 meters below Mahabaleshwar. These 38 meters translate themselves into a breathtaking 19 kilometers approach that swoops around bends with carefree abandon, offering attractive views of the river Krishna on one side and the coastal plains on the other.

John Chesson, who was sent out by the East India Company to find a suitable place where the wives and children of the officers of the Company could reside instead of going back to England frequently, established Panchgani in 1853. Since then, Panchgani has been an educational center and hill resort.

It has the Raj stamped indelibly all over it. It can be seen in the architecture of the old British buildings, the Parsi houses and the boarding schools that have been around for a century or more.

Flocked by viewpoints, Panchgani is full of wonders, as it overlooks the scenic magnificence of the Krishna Valley, which extends many kilometers from east to west its numerous hamlets, cultivated fields and sparkling rivers.

The view from Tableland, a flat mountain peak measuring about one square kilometer, exposes the mysterious valleys and the miniature looking plains on all sides. The Caves, Kamlagad fort, Municipal Garden and the Children’s park add to Panchgani’s unending beauty. The walkways, thickly canopied by lush trees and vegetation, offer many delights and unravel many a secret. Visitors can select a horse from one of the numerous stables at the resort and canter along uncharted routes through hidden lover’s lanes, to the caves or while away their time at the bazaar. Like Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani is known for strawberries, blackberries, jams and fruit jellies. Also available are the famous Mahabaleshwar shoes, pith flowers, exclusive saris shawls, readymade garments, eye-catching decorative items, leather goods and tribal trinkets.

The Devil’s kitchen, situate to the south of Tableland is a place of mythological interest. According to one legend, Pandavas resided here for some time during their exile. Pandavgad caves near Wai are believed to have been built by them and bear their name.

Near the Octroi Naka, lies Sidney Point, a flattened area on the apex of a conical hill. From here one can see Wai and the Sanatorium in the distance and also the sparkling waters of Dhom Dam. Parsi Point and Graves Point are located on the Panchgani Mahableshwar road and offer a view of the Krishna Valley. 6 kilometers away are the Rajpuri, caves, located in a temple of Kartik Swami, son of Lord Shiva.

Panchgani has the Moral Rearmament Training Center founded by Mahatma Gandhi’s nephew Raj Mohan Gandhi. Its modern structures stand distinctly in the Victoria surroundings. A visit to the Center means a beginning of a new moral awareness. MRA consists of hostels, conference rooms and a multipurpose auditorium.

PRATAPGARH FORT

A visit to Pratapgad Fort, 24 kilometers from Mahabaleshwar, adds a historical dimension to the Mahabaleshwar-Panchgani holiday. Made famous by the Maratha leader Shivaji, the fort built in 1656, saw a decisive encounter between him and Afzal Khan, a general sent by the ruler of Ahmednagar to subdue the rebel. Afzal Khan was killed in the clash and Shivaji established himself as a significant force in the contemporary power politics.

Pratapgad has the honor of being an authentic Maratha fort. From a distance it looks like a round-topped hill, walls of the lower fort forming a kind of bend or crown around the brow. The road leading to the gateway lies through a small, but thick forest.

The famous temple of Goddess Bhavani is on the eastern side of the lower fort. It consists of a hall and a shrine. The shrine, made of black stone, is the image of the goddess and over it is a small spire or shikhar.

An equestrian bronze statue, of Chhatrapati Shivaji was erected in the fort in 1957. The 17-foot statue is placed on a square edifice, which is 10 feet high. And, a little away from the fort, is the dargah of Afzal Khan.

The fort stands as a silent testimony to the past that resounded with warlike cries, the clashing of swords, the clanging of shields and the final joyous cries of victory.

As varied as the different parts of the state of Maharashtra, a Mahabaleshwar-Panchgani-Pratapgad Fort experience offers a secluded sanctuary… with all the elements of adventure, scenic sights, and a restful holiday, away from the crowds one finds at other hill resorts. Truly, a holiday with a difference!

GETTING THERE

Pune is the nearest airport both for Mahabaleshwar (120 km and Panchgani (98 km)

For Mahabaleshwar, the nearest railhead is Wathar (62 km) but Pune (120 km) is the convenient railhead.

For Panchgani, the nearest railhead is Wathar (45 km). Bombay-Wathar via Pune (312 km). Pune-Wathar (120 km)

From Mumbai via Pune, Mahabaleshwar is 290 km and via Mahad it is 247 km. The State Transport buses ply from Bombay and Pune to Mahabaleshwar. MTDC operates daily bus services except during the monsoon, between Mumbai-Mahabaleshwar-Mumbai. Also sightseeing tours for Mahabaleshwar and Mahabaleshwar-Pratapgad Fort.

From Mumbai via Pune, Panchgani is 270 km and via Mahad 266 km, from Pune 98 kilometers and from Mahabaleshwar 19 km. The State Road Transport buses ply from Satara, Pune, Wai, Mahabaleshwar and Mahad. MTDC runs a regular bus service between Mumbai and Panchgani.

WHERE TO STAY

Both Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani have reasonable priced bungalows. MTDC run holiday resorts and hotels.

WHERE TO EAT

The two resorts offer a choice of good food. Gujarati vegetarian meals, continental, Chinese and Mughlai specialties are served in hotels and restaurants.

LOCAL TRANSPORT

Taxis and rickshaws are easily available though bicycles and horseback are recommended for traveling long distances.

WHEN TO VISIT

Best time to visit Mahabaleshwar is October to June and best time to visit Panchgani is September to May.

LONAVALA

JEWEL OF THE SAHYADRI

Lonavala is an important hill station in the state of Maharashtra. It is popularly known as the jewel of the Sahyadri Mountains. Lonavala is set amongst the sylvan hills of the Western Ghats and is a popular gateway from Mumbai and Pune. It also serves as a starting point for tourists interested in visiting the famous, ancient Buddhist rock cut caves of Bhaja and Karla, which are located near this hill station. It also has an important Yoga center near it, for the health conscious traveler.

LOCATION

Lonavala is located in the western part of the state of Maharashtra, in the western region of India. It is set amongst the slopes of the Sahyadri mountain range and situated 106 km southeast of Mumbai at an altitude of 625 m above sea level. The weather in Lonavala is pleasant. Summers (April-June) are mild, while winters are cool (November-February). It experiences heavy southwestern monsoon rains between June and September.

VISITING TIME

The best time to visit Lonavala is between the months of October and May. It is advised not to visit Lonavala in the monsoon season between the months of June and September, as it experiences heavy rainfall during this time.

THE PAST

The area around Lonavala was an important Buddhist center in 2nd century BC and a number of ancient Buddhist rock-cut cave temples can be found in this area. As Lonavala is located in the inhospitable terrain of the Sahyadri mountain range, it was not an important site in terms of history. Chattrapati Shivaji, the founder of the first Maratha Empire, ruled this area. Later it came under the Peshwa rulers, who founded the second Maratha Empire. It was finally taken over by the British when they defeated the Peshwas.

TOURIST SPOTS

Lonavala provides a panoramic view of the lush green surroundings of the Sahyadri ranges. The peaceful environs of the town, which provides a great escape from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai city, attract tourists to this place. Travelers can take a walk along the waterfalls, the grassy abundance and hills in and around Lonavala. The mountainous terrain of Lonavala is ideal for trekking and hiking.

SITES NEARBY

There are numerous lakes around Lonavala. Tugauli, Lonavala and Bhushi lakes are worth visiting; so is the Walvan Dam. The small hill station of Khandala is just 5 km away. Travelers coming from Mumbai pass through Khandala before reaching Lonavala. Kaivalyadhama Yoga Hospital is 2 km from Lonavala on the road to Karla and Bhaja caves. This center attracts both local and foreign tourists seeking yogic healing. This center was established in 1924 and conducts various courses in Yoga along with a research center and a training college. Karla and Bhaja Caves, located in the hills at a distance of 11 km from Lonavala, are important places to visit. These rock-cut cave temples dating back to 2nd century BC and are amongst the oldest and finest examples of Buddhist rock cut temple art in India, belonging to the Hinayana sect of Buddhism. Adventure seekers can try their hand at rock climbing at the Duke’s Nose peak and other locations in the Karla hills, near Lonavala.

HOW TO REACH

Lonavala does not have an airport. The nearest airport is in Pune, which is 64 km from Lonavala. As Lonavala is on the main railway line between Mumbai (Bombay) and Pune (Poona), all express trains plying between the two cities stop here. The travel time from Lonavala to Mumbai in express train is 3 hours while it takes 1 hour from Lonavala to Pune. There is also an hourly shuttle service for Pune (2 hours). The railway station in Lonavala is located near the fruit market, while the main bus stand is near the main road. The bus service between Lonavala and Pune is good (2 hours). However, the ride is rough and it takes 4 hours to reach Mumbai from Lonavala. Buses shuttle between Lonavala and Khandala (5 km from Lonavala; 15 minutes trip). Travelers can hire bicycles on hourly basis to explore Lonavala or to go to Khandala.

PLACES TO EAT

Tourists can savor traditional Indian, Marathi and western food in the hotels and restaurants across this small town. Lonavala is known for chikki, which is a local sweet.

INFORMATION

The travelers interested in trekking and hiking trips around Lonavala can contact the Maharashtra Tourism Development Council.

Kohima

THE HILLY HOME OF THE BRAVE

“When you go home, tell them of us: that for their tomorrow, we gave our today,” reads an epitaph in the War Cemetery of Kohima. This picturesque town is the home of the brave and daring, yet simple and innocent, Naga tribes. Lapped in the eastern frontiers of the Himalayan mountain range, Kohima is marked by an unhurried pace of life, calm and serene environs and fresh, unpolluted air, which make a welcome change for a jaded city dweller. A typical Naga town, it depicts the exotic tribal culture of the northeast and offers a panoramic view of the neighboring hills.

LOCATION

Situated in the southwest part of the northeastern state of Nagaland, Kohima is a hill station perched at an altitude of 1500 meters above sea level. This capital town is at a distance of 339 km from Guwahati, 145 km from Imphal and 74 km from Dimapur. The National Highway 39 connects it to both Dimapur and Imphal. It experiences around 250 cm of annual rainfall. While summers are tropical, winters are dry and bitterly cold.

THE PAST

Kohima was founded alongside the large Angami village known as Kohima Village. It has earned its name in history as the place where the Japanese tide was cut short during World War II.

SITES TO VISIT

The highway from Imphal to Dimapur, the route along which the Japanese hoped to reach the plains of India, crosses the saddle at the foot of the World War II Cemetery. These immaculate gardens stand as a memorial to the Allies who died on this very spot during the three-month Battle of Kohima that ended in April 1944. A bronze plaque with a suitable epitaph supports each grave.

The Catholic Cathedral at Aradura Hill is an important landmark; it is one of the largest cathedrals in the entire northeast and is home to the biggest wooden cross in the country.

The Nagaland State Museum, about 1½ km north, is a one-stop treasure trove where one can get a glimpse into Naga culture through history. Here one can find dioramas of each tribe being displayed. The main items exhibited are gateposts, statues, pillars, jewelry, and a ceremonial drum that looks like a dugout war canoe in a separate shed. This canoe suggests that the Nagas may have originated from Sumatra. The basement of the museum has birds and animals of northeastern hill states.

The Zoological Park abounds in rich flora and fauna of Nagaland. Of special interest is the world famous Blythe Tragopan. In the heart of the town, one can see the last relics of the Kachari kingdom.

SITES NEARBY

Just 5 km away, on the Dimapur-Kohima Road is Ruzaphema, a place ideally suited for leisure and recreation with its colorful bazaars and a wide range of tribal handicrafts that are exquisite in their style, and unique in their own way.

Around 10 km from Kohima is the village of Khonoma that abounds in stories of valor and courage. The terraced fields, which produce 20 types of paddy at different elevations, present a beautiful view. The Khonoma gate relates the tragic story of British infiltration into Naga Hills in 1879.

Situated at an altitude of 3,048 meters above sea level, 15 km from Kohima is the Japfu Peak. It is the second highest peak of Kohima and ideally suited for trekking and scaling. The sight of Kohima from here is breathtakingly beautiful.

Dzukou valley is one of the best trekking spots in the northeast region at an altitude of 2,438 meters above sea level, behind Japfu Peak and 30 km to the south of Kohima. The entire valley is overshadowed with a type of tough bamboo brush that makes the place appear like a mowed lawn. White and yellow lilies and numerous other flowers adorn the valley in summers, while rhododendrons ornament the hills surrounding the valley.

Mokokchung and Zunheboto, situated 160 and 150 km respectively from Kohima are picturesque towns at great heights. Mokokchung is a cultural center of the Ao Nagas. Here the main festivals of the Aos-Moatsu and Tsungremmong-are celebrated during the first week of May and August respectively.

Situated at an altitude of 195 meters above sea level is Dimapur, an important commercial center of Nagaland. Dimapur hosts the only airport in Nagaland and is also well connected with the neighboring states of Manipur, Asom, Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Tripura and Mizoram by National Highway 39. It is also the main railhead in Nagaland.

Kohima has been profusely showered with Nature’s bounty. Besides the varied flora, the fauna of Kohima too boasts of its exotica. The Fakim Sanctuary, close to the Myanmar border, receives high rainfall and is inhabited by tigers and hoolock gibbons. The Pulie Badze Sanctuary is a ringed-in 9-sq-km area that lies in the proximity of Kohima. Located at a distance of 37 km from Dimapur, the Intanki Wildlife Sanctuary has some rare species of birds.

WHERE TO SHOP

The Nagaland State Emporium is near the bus stand and one can buy colorful shawls, bags, decorative spears, wood-carvings, bamboo baskets and other handicrafts from here. Each Naga tribe has its own distinctive design on its shawls and the most famous one is the red, black and white Tsungkotepsu of the Ao Nagas. There are also super markets where one can buy handloom and handicrafts.

WHERE TO STAY

Kohima offers very few choices as far as lodges are concerned. A few good private hotels and the Tourist Lodge (Ph: 22417) are the only places to stay. Twenty-five percent of the rent for accommodation in the Tourist Lodge is required to be paid in advance either in cash or by money order at the time of booking.

HOW TO REACH

The nearest airport is at Dimapur. Indian Airlines operates Boeing services from both Kolkata and Delhi every alternate day. Guwahati and Imphal are also connected to Dimapur by air. The nearest railhead too is Dimapur, and the Northeast Frontier Railway runs a number of trains from Dimapur to Guwahati. Guwahati is in turn well connected to the rest of the country. Nagaland State Transport runs buses from Dimapur to Kohima and the journey takes around 4 hours. From Guwahati, one can find a number of luxury private buses. Taxis and mini-coaches are also available, albeit at slightly exorbitant rates, from Dimapur.

ENTRY FORMALITIES

Domestic tourists visiting Nagaland require to obtain Inner Line Permits issued by the Additional Deputy Commissioner, Dimapur; Deputy Commissioner, Kohima and Mokokchung; Deputy Resident Commissioner at Nagaland House in Kolkata and Delhi; and Assistant Resident Commissioner, Shillong. A minimal permit fee is realized from each applicant. Detailed information can be had from the Directorate of Tourism, Nagaland, Kohima (Ph: 2544). All foreign tourists desiring to visit Nagaland require Restricted Area Permit from the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India, South Block, New Delhi. The Office of the State Resident Commissioner in New Delhi (Ph: 011-3012296) is also helpful.

KODAIKANAL

Tucked away among the Palani Hills in Tamilnadu, in South India, and jealously guarded like a prized jewel by the dark forests, is Kodaikanal. In fact, the name itself means ‘gift of the forest’ in Tamil. A more appropriate and evocative name could not have been imagined for this quaint, untouched little hill station, where the air is intoxicating, the scenery breathtakingly beautiful, and serenity seldom found in other hill stations. Cradled in the southern crest of the upper Palani Hills, in the Western Ghats, 120 km from Madurai, Kodaikanal is located 2133 m above sea level. Founded by American missionaries in 1845, Kodaikanal is steeped in history. Relics and artifacts of the Paliyans who once lived in these hills can still be seen in the Shenbaganur Museum. Even today, a few Paliyans can be seen near Kukal Cave. In the early days, there were no roads and people had to travel by bullock-cart and palanquin braving the dangers of the forests.

Slowly Kodaikanal developed, missionaries established church properties, many of the then ruling princes built summer holiday-homes, clubs were opened, school and hotels were built, and civic amenities were introduced.

THE TOWN

Driving into Kodaikanal from Palani is a dramatic experience, reminiscent in parts of the drive up the Ghat road from Kallar to Ooty. It is a relief to leave the hot, dusty plains behind and drive up into the cool hills. The vegetation changes gradually from palm-fringed paddy fields to wild brush with flaming blossoms to plantations interspersed with stately silver oaks. The view of the Amaravathi Dam, a shimmering sapphire sheet of water is an unforgettable sight. Driving higher, banana trees give way to tall eucalyptus trees, and the whole countryside is dotted with wildflowers in jeweled colors, magenta and purple predominating. There is a marked nip in the air, as one reaches for one’s cardigan, or shawl. At a bend in the road, the shimmer and roar of the Silver Cascade waterfall welcome the tourist.

Arriving in Kodai town, one is greeted by orchards of pear trees with their graceful branches silhouetted in artistic curves against the evening sky like stark Zen etchings. Buildings with gabled roof dot the skyline. Broken fragments of light from the setting sun are caught and kindled in the wind-rippled water appearing like a myriad lamp floating on the lake. Soon, as though on cue, lights start twinkling all over the hillside, and even the stars pick up the message, and heaven and earth are a riot of light, as though beaming messages of goodwill to each other.

PLACES TO VISIT

The Kodai Club gives the impression of stepping back into colonial India. The lounge with its period fireplace, the piano, the Leigh Hunt prints, the library stocked with books by Evelyn Waugh, Anthony Trollope, and the bar with stuffed heads of bison, tigers, deer-horns, and a picture of the Laughing Cavalier by Franz Hals, the restaurant with old English plates, a glowing hearth-fire, and landscape prints, are all British legacies. Cinnereras and primulus add to the English atmosphere, and again one is struck by the predominance of the lilac-purple theme. The dinner consisting of steaming mulligatawny soup, roast chicken and potatoes, and apple pie, is a further British legacy.

As one relaxes in the comfortable chamber of the Kodaikanal Club, a cheerful log fire dances a tableau of flame and shadow on the hearth, keeping out the chill of the night.

One wakes up with an air of expectancy refreshed after a good night’s sleep. The tree-fringed lake greets one in the crisp early morning. One realizes that the lake is the cool heart of Kodaikanal. It is the legacy of the then Collector, Sir Vere Livinge, who formed it by damming the valley where three streams flowed. It spreads over an area of 60 acres and is skirted by a three-mile tarred road. There is a Boat Club and a public ferry.

Just across the Kodaikanal Club is the Kodaikanal School, an imposing campus of verdant manicured lawns, dignified trees and solid stone buildings. This coeducational, English medium boarding school offering a pre-university curriculum in 12 grades, prepares students for entrance to Indian and worldwide colleges and universities through the Kodaikanal School Diploma. Selected students are prepared to write the external exams of the International Baccalaureate, based in Geneva. More than 30 nationalities are represented in the school community of students and staff. On the wall of the principal’s outer office is a plaque emblazoned with an appropriate quotation from the French philosopher Teihard de Chardin: “Joy is the infallible sign of the presence of god.”

Almost cheek by jowl with the Kodaikanal School is the Lutheran Church, a Gothic stone building with stained glass windows and modern paintings and batiks portraying scenes from the life of Christ. Nearby is an even more famous church, Christ the King Church, a very Gothic and solemn granite structure with stained glass windows.

The names of the buildings in Kodaikanal are very evocative: ‘Loch End’ and ‘Mansarovar’, these two houses by the lakeside, bridge the time span from colonial times to the present; Hillbrook, Furzbank, Wood-cote, Whispering Pines, and Rock Cottage, all conjure up the beauty and spirit of their natural ambience.

Jacaranda trees burst out in purple profusion, as though singing hosannas to the skies. Magnolia trees guard their ‘escaping’ fragrance, while cherry trees sweep in graceful pink arcs.

On the east side of the lake is Bryant’s Park, named after the forest officer who planned its layout around the turn of the century. Beautiful pine and eucalyptus trees grow here. There is one ancient eucalyptus tree dating back to 1846 that is 250 feet high and 10 feet wide. The well-laid out gardens contain many annuals and perennials like azaleas, watsonias, dahlias, stock, primulas, fusschias, asters, etc. Many exotic varieties of orchids are housed in the Orchid House. Walking along the lotus pond, the memory of a verse learnt in childhood comes to mind:

Four ducks on a pond,
A grass bank beyond,
White clouds on the wing;
What a little thing
To remember for years,
To remember with tears.

About a kilometer from the lake is the Coaker’s Walk, named after St. Coaker of the Royal Engineers, offering a fantastic view of the plains and the distant hills. There is a rugged pristine beauty about these vistas, and the mist rising in veils from the valley below, gives the place an unreal quality.

Driving along the cool green darkness with the trees making a canopy overhead, one reaches Green Valley View. Gnarled cypress roots make a natural crazy path to the sheer drop of 1,000 feet that overlooks the Vaigai Dam. Clouds are banked like snow, and violet haze envelopes the distant hills. Here too, the mist rises from the valley, imparting a solemn, out-of-this-world beauty to the scene. The exclusive Kodai Golf Club is very near Green Valley View.

Past the Golf Club is the 114-acre Golf Links --- an undulating green velvet carpet, which is another colonial legacy. Thick woods line the road leading to the Pillar Rocks. These are three vertical pillars standing shoulder-to-shoulder measuring 112 m. The ground drops sheer below them, creating a dramatic impact and affording a stupendous view of the valley below. Soon mists wrap up the pillars in mystery and one wonders whether they are real, or whether they were a figment of one’s imagination. Then the sun melts the mists away and the rocks rise, solemn and majestic, dappled in sun and shadow: the effect is ethereal and awe-inspiring.

The abundance of pear orchards is a striking feature of the Kodaikanal landscape. Here and there, a solitary snowy blossom seems to peep out tentatively to reconnoiter the weather conditions, and one has a hint of the profusion of pear blossoms to follow, when the branches would be heavy with their own blooms, leaving scant room for leaves.

A sheer lacy curtain of water, so aptly named ‘Fairy Falls,’ is nearby. About 5 1/2 km from the lake is the Shenbaganur Museum, maintained by the Sacred Heart College, a Theological Seminary founded in 1895. The stuffed-birds and the butterfly collection are remarkable. The archeological collection is meticulously documented. One can see the implements and the burial urns of the Paliyans here. One of the best orchidariums in the country, with more than 300 species of orchids, is also located on the premises of Sacred Heart College.

PLACES NEARBY

There are several excursion spots in and around Kodaikanal.

Dolphin’s Nose, located about 8 km from the lake, is a flat projecting rock from where one can have a breathtaking view of the yawning chasm below.

The Perumal Peak, about 11 km from Kodaikanal, is a trekker’s delight. Climbers begin their ascent from the Neutral Saddle.

Berijam Lake supplies drinking water to Periyakulam town, and is 21 km from Kodaikanal (beyond the Pillar Rocks). It is a popular picnic spot with a beautiful view.

Kukal Cave, 40 km from Kodaikanal, is a favourite camping site for trekkers. Reportedly, descendants of the Paliyans still live here.

KHANDALA

KHANDALA: THE PRIDE OF SAHYADRI

Khandala is one of the important hill stations in the state of Maharashtra and is the pride of the Sahyadri Mountains. Khandala is endowed with abundant natural beauty and like Lonavala, it is also provides a popular gateway from the hustle and bustle of cities of Mumbai and Pune. The picturesque green surroundings of this pretty hill station attract the travelers towards it.

LOCATION

Khandala is located in the western part of the state of Maharashtra, in the western region of India. It is set amongst the hills and valleys of the Sahyadri mountain range. It is situated 101 km southeast of Mumbai and 69 km from Pune. It is 5 km from Lonavala. Weather in Khandala is pleasant. Summers (April-June) are mild, while winters are cool (November-February). It experiences heavy southwestern monsoon rains between June and September.

VISITING TIME

The best time to visit Khandala is between the months of October and May. It is advised not to visit Khandala in the monsoon season between the months of June and September because of heavy rains.

THE PAST

The origin of the place is obscure. Chattrapati Shivaji, the founder of the first Maratha Empire, ruled the area around Khandala. Later it came under the Peshwa rulers, who established the second Maratha Empire. It was finally taken over by the British when they defeated the Peshwas.

TOURIST SPOTS

Khandala is a small hill station. The town provides a panoramic view of the lush green hilly environs. Travelers throng this place to escape the hectic lifestyle of Mumbai city. They can enjoy the scenic beauty of this place by taking a walk around. It has a number of trekking trails around it.

SITES NEARBY

The popular hill station of Lonavala is only 5 km from Khandala. Lonavala also has the same geographical settings as that of Khandala.

There are a number of lakes around Khandala. Tugauli Lake, Lonavala Lake and Bhushi Lake are worth visiting; so is the Walvan Dam. Karla and Bhaja Caves, located in the hills at a distance of 16 km from Khandala, are important places to visit. These rock-cut cave temples dating back to 2nd century BC and are amongst the oldest and finest examples of Buddhist rock-cut temple art in India, belonging to the Hinayana sect of Buddhism. Adventure seekers can try their hand at rock climbing at the Duke’s Nose peak and other locations in the Karla hills, near Khandala. Travelers coming from Mumbai to Khandala via the Mumbai-Pune highway can see the Duke’s Nose with its peculiar peak.

HOW TO REACH

Khandala does not have an airport. The nearest airport is at Pune (69 km) while the nearest railway station is at Lonavala. As Lonavala is on the main railway line between Mumbai (Bombay) and Pune (Poona), all express trains plying between the two cities stop here and travelers can take express trains passing through Lonavala to reach Mumbai and Pune. The travel time from Lonavala to Mumbai in express train is three hours, while it takes one hour from Lonavala to Pune. There is also an hourly shuttle service for Pune (2 hours). Khandala is well connected with Mumbai and Pune by road and the bus service for Pune (travel time 2½ hours) via Lonavala is good. However, it takes about four hours to reach Mumbai from Khandala. Buses shuttle between Khandala and Lonavala (15 minutes). Travelers can also walk down to Lonavala from Khandala.

INFORMATION

Travelers can contact Maharashtra Tourism Development Council or MTDC and get necessary information about trekking and hiking around Khandala.

KHAJJIAR

THE SYLVAN MEADOW

Khajjiar is a small grassy meadow located in the picturesque Chamba valley. It is an important picnic spot whose quiet environs beacon the tourists traveling between Dalhousie and Chamba. The stopover at Khajjiar is a welcome break for the weary tourists.

LOCATION

Khajjiar is located in the northwestern part of the state of Himachal Pradesh, in the northern region of India. It is perched at an altitude of 1951 m above sea level. Khajjiar is 22 km from Dalhousie and 24 km from Chamba. The climate of Khajjiar is alpine. Summers (April-June) are mild and winters (November-February) are cold and bitter. It experiences southwestern monsoon rains in July-September.

VISITING TIME

The best time to visit Khajjiar is between March and June

THE PAST

The history of Khajjiar is linked to the rulers of Chamba. The local Rajput rulers ruled Chamba valley in the 6th century ad and made it their capital city. This region became the part of the Mughal Empire in the medieval period and later came under various Sikh kingdoms. Finally, it was taken over by the British. It became a part of the state of Himachal Pradesh when it came into being on April 15, 1948.

TOURIST SPOTS

Khajjiar is a small grassy meadow (1 × 1 sq km) between tall deodar trees. This emerald opening amidst the woods has a small pond at its center. There are two floating islands in the middle of the pond; they are sometimes hidden from view by the tall grass that grows on them.

Khajjiar, known as one of the “most charming spots in the Himalayas,” derives its name from its ancient, golden-domed temple of Khajinag. The 12th-century Khajinag temple is a small shrine dedicated to the local Goddess or the Devi. This temple is also known as the Golden Devi temple, as it is adorned with a golden dome and spire. Pilgrims visiting the Chamba valley often come to this temple.

A nine-hole golf course is an added attraction at Khajjiar.

SITES NEARBY

The town of Chamba is 24 km from Khajjiar. Chamba is located in a picturesque valley, amongst the Shivalik ranges and is famous for its medieval temples. It is also known for its local festivals.

The hill station of Dalhousie is 22 km from Khajjiar and is a popular summer retreat set amongst the lower Himalayan ranges.

HOW TO REACH

Khajjiar is a small tourist spot, and can only be reached by road. It is well connected with other towns in the Chamba valley. Buses from Chamba (1½ hour) and Dalhousie (1½ hour) stop at this picnic spot. Travelers can also hire taxis from either Dalhousie or Chamba to reach here. One can explore the pristine beauty of this spot by taking a walk in the meadow and around the small pond.

KETTI - A Village in the Nilgiris

LOCATION

Ketti is a small village in the Nilgiri Mountains in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Situated at a height of 7,000 feet, Ketti is on the road to Coonoor from Ooty.

CLIMATE

Ketti has a beautiful climate and the place is suitable for visit in all seasons except monsoons. During summers, the temperature is rarely higher than 25°C or lower than 10°C. Winters are distinctly cooler with a high of 21°C and a low of 5°C.

PAST

There is not much of known history about Ketti. It is a relatively new destination and better known for its tribes and tea plantation. Tea plantation was introduced for the first time in the Ketti valley in 1835. This was perhaps the first time when tea plantation was started in south India and commercial plantation in south India also started from Ketti. After the successful trial of commercial tea plantation here, the process was introduced in the other parts of the Nilgiris.

SITES TO VISIT

Ketti is a picturesque village nestled in the Nilgiri hills of Tamil Nadu near Ootacamund or Ooty. Once in the village, one soon adapts to the ‘early to bed, early to rise’ mode. Even before the sun has risen, the village wakes up. Cowbells resonate musically across the valley while smoke spirals skywards from the tiled houses below. A walk around the village can be an invigorating afternoon occupation for the tourists, winding up above stately buildings such as the Sunny Bank within the boundary of Ooty town. When night falls, one will delight in the unbelievable clusters of stars that seem just an arm's length away.

The idyllic mountain village of Ketti is home to tribes such as the Todas and the Badagas, who even now continue with their traditional tribal way of life. Ketti represents a rural lifestyle that revolves around caring for livestock, and cultivation of vegetables. The scenery is idyllic in the Ketti valley and the weather salubrious.

Also at hand, for the visitor to Ketti, is a wealth of natural beauty in the Wenlock Downs, the Municipal Gardens and the Dodabetta Peak at 2, 623 m, the highest in the Nilgiri Mountains.

SITES NEARBY
Called the ‘Queen of Hill Stations’ and better known as Ooty, the picturesque green Udhagamandalam or Ootacamund is the most popular hill station in south India. Located in the Western Ghats at a height of 2,240 m, Udhagamandalam is the headquarters of the Nilgiri district where the two Ghats (western and eastern) meet.

Situated at an altitude of 2,000 ft and near Ketti is Coonoor, a small town with an equable climate that has made it a popular hill resort in its own right. The main attraction is the Sim's Park, a small well-maintained botanical garden that has several rare varieties of plants that are not found in the other hill stations. Viewpoints and picnic spots around Coonoor include Lambs Rock, Lady Canning's Seat, and Dolphin's Nose.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many deluxe and semi deluxe residential options available in and around Ketti like Lovedale and Ootacamund.

HOW TO REACH

The airport nearest to Ketti is at Coimbatore around 100 km away. There are direct bus services from Ketti and Ootacamund to Coimbatore.

Ketti is a part of the now famous Nilgiri Railway with its locomotive trains. Railways link Ketti with nearby places like Coonoor and Ootacamund.

Ketti is easily reached via good, all-weather roads from Ootacamund and Coimbatore within Tamil Nadu in the south and with Bengaluru via the Madhumalai-Bandipur Game Sanctuary and Mysooru in Karnataka to the north

INFORMATION

Ketti is a small village and tribes here are very sensitive about their cultural heritage. Special care should be taken not to offend the customs and tranquility of the village. Most of the commodities of daily necessity can be purchased in the nearby cities like Ootacamund and it is better to carry the necessary items along when visiting this place. Winters are very cold and heavy woolens are required for protection against the climate.